The holiday season is in full swing: Yards and houses are festooned with lights, garland and tinsel make everything sparkle, and Santa and his reindeer are ever-present. So, too, are Christmas and holiday beers. There have been fewer of them in the past few years, but this year they've made a comeback.

The tradition of making special brews around the winter solstice is probably as old as beer itself. There is ample archaeological evidence of beer brewing in ancient cultures, from Persia to Britain. For many of them the solstice marked an important transition — the return of the sun after the long, dark night of winter. It's not a stretch to believe that beer would have been a part of these celebrations.

Norwegian farmers were once required under penalty of forfeiture of land to brew a holiday juleøl. More recently, the wassail tradition of singing songs in exchange for strong, spiced ale was popular both in England and the American colonies. The governors of the Massachusetts Bay Colony banned the practice in 1659 to defend their parishioners against debauchery. But by the late 1700s, it was again the custom to brew a "right strong Christmas beer" to enhance the holiday cheer.

These days, holiday beers run the gamut from classic styles that are really only holiday beers because the brewery designated them as such, to full-on spiced, cookie-candy gimmick beers. And in between are beers with seasonal fruit and spice additions that don't take it over the top.

Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. in California has been making Celebration Ale for 40 years. It's a straightforward, fresh-hop IPA, meaning the hops are rushed from the field to the brewhouse in hours or days to capture the brightest citrus character. Some would say it's one of the best IPAs made; I would have to agree. Fresh Centennial and Cascade hops give it intense grapefruit and citrus aromas and flavors, accompanied by resinous pine. It all sits on a bed of luscious, caramelized malt. It's absolutely delicious.

Belgian beers with their fruity and spicy fermentation flavors naturally express holiday cheer without the need for additional ingredients. St. Bernardus Christmas Ale is one of the best. This strong, dark Belgian ale is redolent of dark and dried fruits like dates, prunes and plums. Belgian yeast also brings hints of clove and anise that is offset by rich caramel malts and tinges of chocolate. It's creamy in the mouth but finishes dry with low earthy hops and a bit of balancing bitterness.

The 12% alcohol, strong blond ale Stille Nacht from De Dolle Brouwers brings loads of juicy lighter fruits to the party, such as apricots and pears. These are complemented by sharp, peppery spice and a faint whiff of cinnamon. Notes of honey and bread lend sweetness upfront that gives way to a dry and bitter finish. The alcohol warms all the way down.

Moving to the United Kingdom, Harvey's Christmas Ale from Harvey's Brewery offers what the brewery calls bottled Christmas pudding. The aroma carries notes of candied plums and orange peel that reappear in the flavor. It's a malt-forward beer with caramel in the lead and toast, breadcrust and chocolate in support. Malt sweetness is moderated by sturdy bitterness and grassy/herbal hop flavors. They call this a barleywine, but at 7.5% the alcohol is on the low end for the style. It'll warm you up without knocking you out.

Schell's Snowstorm is a Minnesota holiday tradition, and it's a different beer every year. This year's rendition is called Four Rye Dark Ale. As the name suggests, the spicy character of rye malt is deliciously prominent. It takes many forms, from bread to toffee and on to raisin, chocolate and roast. The malt is backed up by a healthy dose of fermentation-derived fruity notes and a bit of herbal hop. This is a beer that keeps on changing as you make your way through the glass.

On the even darker side, Lump of Coal from Ridgeway Brewing in Oxfordshire, United Kingdom, offers the roasty goodness of a rich English stout. Dark chocolate and French roast coffee lead the way. Beneath are notes of toffee, brown sugar, biscuit and walnuts. There is some sweetness, but it is more than balanced by the bitterness of roasted malts. It finishes dry with long-lingering flavor.

Colorado's New Belgium Holiday Ale uses cranberries and cinnamon to bring holiday cheer to a simple amber ale. While the brewery only lists cinnamon, the beer gives an impression of other spices like nutmeg and allspice. There's even a hint of almond. Cranberry is more prominent in the aroma than the flavor, but it does give a slight note of brightness and acidity. The caramel, biscuit and toasted malt of the amber ale provide a firm base for all the spice. Though the spice is clear, it never overpowers. The result is more mulled wine than Christmas cookie.

For a more aggressive take on holiday ale, try Fistmas from Revolution Brewing in Chicago. This is an assertively hopped red IPA made with orange peel and ginger. Ginger and citrus are natural partners and the ginger in the beer melds beautifully with the strong citrus hop character. The ginger heats up as you make your way through the glass, but it never becomes overly spicy. The orange peel gives the subtle scent of orange oil, like a twist over a cocktail. The beer goes out with a super dry finish that lingers on ginger.

Moving into the full-on Christmas cookie realm, Christmas Cookie Cream Ale from Bent Paddle Brewing in Duluth is a good place to start. It's based on the classic spritz cookie, a holiday staple in Germany and Scandinavia. Vanilla, almond and cardamom are the stars in both flavor and aroma. Cardamom is particularly prominent in the flavor. The almond and vanilla give an impression of marzipan. The underlying cream ale provides the shortbread cookie part. While I'm not a fan of this kind of beer, I found this to be quite drinkable as a festive holiday treat.

New York's Southern Tier Brewing takes the cookie theme over the top with Frosted Sugar Cookie Imperial Ale. This one is like angel food cake soaked in booze. Vanilla and sugary sweetness are the main players. Bready and toasty malt finish the picture. Both the cookie and the crusty frosting are there. At 8.6% alcohol, it warms, but the alcohol doesn't come off as hot. If you want that special holiday feel of a tin of frosted cookies, this beer is for you.

Michael Agnew is a certified cicerone (beer-world version of sommelier) and owner of A Perfect Pint. He conducts private and corporate beer tasting events in the Twin Cities, and can be reached at michael@aperfectpint.net.