There's a story of two countries on the menu at chef Jorge Guzmán's newest restaurant, Chilango. The name is usually a slang demonym for Mexico City natives, but the chef/owner was emphatic on our visit that this isn't food meant to evoke CDMX. It's Mex-Tex, a term Guzmán uses to describe the Mexican-forward version of Tex-Mex cuisine (Guzmán's roots are in the Yucatán). The result is a collection of dishes with names and cooking techniques that ignite the chef's passion and creativity.
Guzmán is known in the Twin Cities for his work at many notable local eateries, including the lauded and shuttered Surly's Brewer's Table, the pop-up Pollo Pollo al Carbon and, most recently, Petite León, which redefined neighborhood dining.
Chilango has replaced Urban Eatery at the base of the Beach Club Residences building overlooking Bde Maka Ska. The interior has been entirely remade, with a front area centered around the bar, with booths lined along the back wall beneath an elaborate mural by artist Rodrigo Oñate Roco. Toward the back of the restaurant, the dining room has been transformed into an intimate space decorated with lush greenery and soft lighting.
Out front, there are a few coveted patio seats, which will be prime real estate when the weather cooperates.
Location: 2730 W. Lake St., Mpls., 612-920-5000, chilangomextex.com
Hours: Mon.-Wed. bar 5-10 p.m., kitchen 5-9 p.m.; Thu.-Sat. bar 5-11 p.m., kitchen 5-10 p.m.; Sun. bar 11 a.m.-9 p.m., kitchen 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5-8 p.m.
Price range: Appetizers $6-$16, tacos are $13-$18 for three tacos, and entrees range from $24-$42 for the steak. There's one exception: a $150 rib-eye that is suggested to serve four people. Meals are subject to a 4.95% surcharge and there is a tip line.
The food: Bar snacks include guacamole ($15) or queso ($10) with chips, wings ($17), nachos ($16) and flautas ($12), all salty and crunchy tidbits perfect for pairing with drinks. The three taco varieties are fish, beef picadillo "Gringo style" tostada or a spicy beef brisket, all on corn tortillas. There are also entrees dressed up like special-occasion dinners, including whole roasted fish for two or tomato- and garlic-sauced shrimp over a masa panisse.
It's worth noting that entrees come on their own. Tortillas ($5), charro beans ($7), and rice ($5) should be ordered as sides with dishes like the pollo al carbon, a marinated and grilled half chicken ($30) or the carne asada ($42), a thick-sliced strip steak in mojo verde salsa with lemon. The tortillas would bring them from fork-and-knife dining to an eat-with-your-hands experience.
There are also fries ($8) and a burger ($15), listed alongside the sides, that Guzmán says may or may not stay on future menus.
Weeknight dinners offer weekly specials like a Texas-style tamale pie ($27) Mondays, Thursday night chimichangas ($28) or a half-rack of St. Louis pork ribs ($38).
On the dessert menu, the Chilango Choco Taco ($14), cayenne-laced strawberry ice cream with candied pecans and Mexican chocolate on our visit, has been getting lots of online chatter.
The drinks: The cocktail list by Javier Rojas is built to complement that lakeside view with refreshers like a Paloma ($15), house margarita ($15) and the "Chismes" ($15) that drinks like boozy horchata. The bar also dabbles in creative offerings like the "Sparkling Toxic Mezcalinity" ($16) that combines vanilla, pineapple and mezcal. Plus, there are classic cocktails available, including a Oaxacan Old Fashioned ($17) that uses an agave spirit base with piloncillo to sweeten it.
Accessibility: Sound was boisterous, but not intrusive to conversation (the dining room is quieter). On the accessibility front, the bar area is one level, the dining room includes stairs. Handicapped parking is limited. Gluten-free and vegetarian menu items are available, but not denoted on the menu. Ask servers for assistance.
Getting there: Parking in this area has been an adventure long before the restaurant opened, and road construction has added another level of spice to the options. Best to bring patience, valet tip money and a sense of driving-around-the-lakes adventure. The onsite valet ($9) was slick, and they take card payments.
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