What is Duluth's superior beer? We rank the Twin Ports area's many breweries.

When he and his partners opened Fitger's Brewhouse back in 1995, Tim Nelson had a lot of explaining to do.

"It was a pretty new and untested idea in Duluth and throughout Minnesota," Nelson remembered.

This was before "craft beer" became an overused term. Before most people knew "IPA" wasn't a federal committee. Before "taprooms," as they would be called a decade later, were even allowed at breweries in Minnesota. Fitger's had to double as a restaurant to legally sell its own beer on site.

Look at Duluth now.

In 2024, the little city on the big lake is home to eight breweries with thriving taprooms — 10 if you count two in its Twin Ports neighbor of Superior, Wis., where Nelson now runs the popular Earth Rider Brewery. That's nearly twice as many breweries per capita as in the Twin Cities.

As much as Duluth is known as a destination for bikers, hikers, paddlers and runners, it is also becoming a reputable hub for beer drinkers. Its popularity comes to a head next weekend when All Pints North returns to Bayfront Festival Park, one of the state's biggest and best-loved beer festivals.

There's one very large and beautiful reason the Duluth area is a good place to brew beer, the brewers there all say: Lake Superior.

"The water from the lake is the kind brewers everywhere dream of," said Ben Hugus, co-owner of the city's hottest new brewery, Ursa Minor, which opened in 2018.

"Superior's water is so free of minerals and so clean, it's like a blank canvas for brewers to work with."

Five blocks northeast of Ursa Minor is the brewery that pushed Duluth into the modern taproom era, Bent Paddle, now the city's largest and best-known brewery. Its success over 11 prosperous years, in fact, played a key role in transforming Duluth's Lincoln Park neighborhood into a trendy strip now billed as the Craft District. Ooh la la.

Bent Paddle was getting ready to start operations when Minnesota legislators legalized taprooms via the so-called Surly Bill in 2013. That opened the floodgates, with Blacklist, Hoops, Canal Park Brewing and Ursa Minor opening in the ensuing years. Most recently, Lake Superior Brewing — which had been bottling beer since 1994 — opened a chic new taproom and restaurant in what's now called the Lakeside District.

One of Bent Paddle's co-founders, Karen Tonnis, said they're happy to have the competition. But they don't call it that.

"The brewers here all call it 'coopetition,' " Tonnis said, underlining the kindred spirit in the Twin Ports brewery scene.

"We all benefit each other. Beer tourism is a thing and growing in popularity all over the country, and it's neat to see Duluth being put on the map now."

The brewery scene has grown so much, in fact, tourists coming to town often don't know where to go first. So we decided to assess the scene and rank the most popular Twin Ports breweries from best to … just not quite as great as the rest.

This list includes the two breweries just across the bay in Superior, since it's only a 5- to 10-minute drive (or a $10-$20 rideshare fee, options for which are plentiful). We did not include Duluth's two excellent cideries — Wild State and Duluth Cider, both also in the Lincoln Park District — nor its still-fledgling maker of Belgian-style old-world ales, Warrior Brewing.

We ranked these breweries partly based on the atmosphere at their taprooms in addition to the flavor of their beers. On both fronts, there's a lot to enjoy.

1. Ursa Minor Brewing

2415 W. Superior St., ursaminorbrewing.com

The taproom: From the toddlers bouncing around the rocky patio while their parents relaxed to the young crowd joyously watching a Pride-related drag show inside, everybody seemed to be having a lot of fun last month when we twice visited Duluth's great rising star (named after the North Star constellation). Its patio is the largest in town, with more than 30 tables backed by a parked pontoon that doubles as a music stage. The at-the-lake motif includes blue walls and old-wood tables. Inside, there are different, colorful nooks and a dining area good for devouring the excellent wood-fired pizza. Few breweries in all of Minnesota are this fun. Grade: A-

The beer: Give it up for the new kids! They are masterful and innovative beer makers. They have a strong set of core beers, including the tangy Galactic Face Slap (a hazy IPA) and the lemony Glamping, one of the best shandies in the state. But their biggest strength is the impressive lineup of rotating brews. My favorites last month included the ultra-fresh Shenaniberries sour, the bright and banana-y Tourist Saison and the bready Drunk Gandalf, an unusually accessible Belgian tripel. Despite the wide variety offered, there truly was not a bad one in the bunch. Grade: A+

2. Blacklist Brewing Co.

206 E. Superior St., blacklistbeer.com

The taproom: The only brewery you'll find in the heart of Duluth's downtown, it neighbors the renovated NorShor and Zinema theaters to create a mini arts district. Blacklist falls on the darker, heavier side of the arts, though. Metal bands were playing on a recent Saturday night, adding to the brawny and dangerous vibe created by the ax-throwing lanes in a side room. Large garage-door front walls open up to the city sidewalk in summer. Grade: B

The beer: These bold beermakers opened shop in 2012 specializing in Old World and dark beers, with their award-winning Royale Hefe (hefeweizen) and the O.D.B. (Belgian pale strong ale) winning me over on prior visits. So what a treat to go in summer and discover they're also good at making lighter and fruitier beers. A perfect contrast to their brawny reputation: the must-try Girl Scouts Lemonades Shandy was topped with a Lemon-Up (or Lemonade) Girl Scout cookie but still didn't overload on sweetness. On the rare hot day in Duluth, you can also see why their crisp and tart Dill Pickle Kölsch is a fixture at the Minnesota State Fair. They are also making excellent seltzers; try the blueberry first. Grade: A-

3. Fitger's Brewhouse

600 E. Superior St., fitgersbrewhouse.com

The taproom: Housed inside the 19th-century Fitger's brewery complex with other restaurants, shops and a hotel, the brewhouse is split into three rooms with ample tables and seating. Its low-lit vibe feels warm in winter but a bit too dark in summer. So good thing there's also a patio that faces Superior Street. The pub-style food menu remains a draw alongside the beer, highlighted by the wild-rice burgers. Grade: B-

The beer: Give it up for the o.g. The brewhouse still brews some of the best beers in the state. Its classics like the Apricot Wheat, the Starfire Pale Ale and Big Boat Oatmeal Stout taste as solid as ever, the former still one the best wheat beers in the state. There's always a sizable list of widely varied and sometimes inventive rotators, too, with our favorites last month including the hardy Thunder Mountain Rumble Dunkel and refreshing Shades On Saison. Don't skip or forget the classics, though. Grade: A-

4. Earth Rider Brewery

1617 N. 3rd St., Superior, Wis., earthrider.beer

The taproom: A welcome contrast to most other breweries' modern-industrial vibes, this one is set at a true historic dive bar. Earth Rider's operators took over the 112-year-old Cedar Lounge as their taproom for a warehouse brewing facility across the street. They also smartly converted an empty plot next to the bar into a grassy concert field that's now one of the Twin Ports' most hopping music venues, with the High Bridge as a backdrop. Upcoming concerts there include 49 Winchester (on July 22) and regular Charlie Parr (Aug. 10). Pretzels from Ashland Baking Co. go great with the beer, too. Grade: A-

The beer: There's a little bit of everything on the long menu here, with staples including the perfectly citrusy Superior Pale Ale, the crowd-pleaser Tap Shack Lager and flavorful but smooth North Tower Stout. Rotating options were a bit too varied and inconsistent in quality, but the Duluth Coffee Pale Ale and Royal Bohemian Pilsner each were bright highlights loaded with flavor, and the Crush Series of fruity kettle-soured wheat ales is always a sure thing for lovers of sours. Grade: B

5. Bent Paddle Brewing Co.

1832 W. Michigan St., bentpaddlebrewing.com

The taproom: Like the nearby Ursa Minor, this former warehouse space opens up to a large patio that has become one of Duluth's most popular summertime hangouts, a two-tier setup with picnic tables, Adirondack chairs, food trucks and live bands playing most weekends. There's not much of a view, though; just the walls of the brewing facility and the I-35 overpass. The indoor space has a useful mix of stand-up and sit-down tables and cozy, fireside couches, plus a terrific gift shop. Grade: B-

The beer: Most Minnesota beer lovers are already hip to Bent Paddle's deservedly popular flagship beers, including the Bent Hop IPA, Venture Pils, Black Ale, Cold Press Black Coffee Ale and 14 Degree Amber Ale (renamed from ESB, because the "B" in "bitter" scared too many patrons). Those darker batches are often served here via nitro taps, the best reason to go. Not quite as enticing as the mainstays, the rotating taps last month included the yummy Boysenberry Slap Sour and light-bodied Half Cord Hefeweizen. Grade: B

6. Hoops Brewing Co.

325 Lake Av. S., hoopsbrewing.com

The taproom: Former Fitger's brewer Dave Hoops opened his namesake taproom in 2017, the best place to drink in Canal Park (especially with the adjoining Bridge cocktail bar). It's housed in the historic Marshall Wells Building across from the lobby of the giant Suites Hotel. Dads in swimsuits are a common sight. There's no patio, no food menu (ample takeout options are nearby) and not a whole lot to look at other than TVs and the long beer list. Grade: C-

The beers: Hoops' good reputation stands strong here, especially among the darker and/or German-style brews. Door County cherries popped with flavor in the No. 1013 Cherry Stout (all the beers are named with numbers), while the No. 91 English Porter and No. 99 Wood-Smoked Hefeweizen both offered the right amount of smokiness. The No. 214 Raspberry Wheat is a winner among the lighter beers, while the pale ales were more everyday but enjoyable. Grade: B+

7. Lake Superior Brewing

5324 E. Superior St., lakesuperiorbrewingduluth.com

The taproom: New owners of this old standby brewery took over a very garishly decorated, '80s tanning booth and exercise facility northeast of downtown and turned it into a modern urban-bohemian taproom and restaurant with a "brewtel" underneath (boutique-style hotel rooms). There's a sizable patio and nice solarium for sunlight in winter, but they face Superior Street and not the lake. It's near the north end of the Lakewalk bike trail and the most convenient place to stop for growler fills before hitting the North Shore. Grade: B+

The beers: In a word: solid. The old brewery's best brand was always its Sir Duluth Oatmeal Stout, and that's still the case, with the breezy Kayak Kolsch another mainstay that's more suitable for summer. The Marzen and Kriek — the latter a Finnish-style cherry sour — were decent and made a nice contrast to all the IPA-heavy breweries. Grade: C

8. Thirsty Pagan Brewing

1615 Winter St., Superior, Wis., thirstypaganbrewing.com

The taproom: After a decade of brewing, this Twin Ports brewing pioneer moved into Superior's historic Soo Line Depot in 2006 and made it into a funky, hippie-ish brewpub that's now more popular for its deep-dish pizzas than its beer. There's a fun hodgepodge of memorabilia and old wood booths in the dusty interior rooms, with a large but unkempt patio out front. Grade: C+

The beer: Even with a smaller beer menu than other sites in town, the offerings here were spottier, with highlights including the Burntwood Black Ale and the Lawnchair Cream Ale. Both the North Coast Amber Ale and ginger-spiked India Pagan Ale sat undrunk after just a few sips. Grade: C-

9. Canal Park Brewing Co.

300 Canal Park Drive, canalparkbrewery.com

The taproom: This one's all about location, location, location. It's in the heart of Canal Park with a large patio offering views of the lake and the hilly cityscape. Inside, it feels a bit like a surfer-themed chain restaurant, with a food menu that broadly caters to families and tourists á la the nearby staple Grandma's. Its outdoor space can't be beat, though. Grade: B+

The beer: You don't come here for the beer, which ranges from pedestrian and average offerings just good enough to justify visiting the great location (the robust Nut Hatchet Brown Ale and the lightly hoppy Hank & Dabs Pale Ale) to one flagship brand that was downright undrinkable on our visit (a discernibly soapy Ankle Deep Pilsner). Grade: D

All Pints North

When: July 27, 3:30-7 p.m.

Where: Bayfront Festival Park, Duluth, rain or shine.

Cost: Tickets for the 21+ event are $65; $20 for N/A tickets. Buy online at mncraftbrew.org

What: The annual event from the Minnesota Craft Brewers Guild features unlimited samples from more than 90 breweries and brewpubs as well as live music, activities, games and other entertainment.