In praise of the braise: 3 recipes for easy, hands-off wintry meals

Low and slow is the way to go when temperatures plunge and the holidays heat up.

Braising is a surefire, no-fuss technique that guarantees a robust one-pot meal. Braised meats turn tender and flavorful; braised veggies become silky and more of themselves. This long, slow cooking warms up the kitchen, glazing the windows and filling the home with wonderful smells.

The process starts by pan-searing the meat or vegetables in a little oil, then finishing them off in a tasty liquid that becomes a sauce, resulting in a harmonious and balanced dish. Once these basic steps are completed, dinner pretty much cooks itself, leaving you free to take on other holiday tasks (wrapping gifts, stamping cards, taking a bath).

When it comes to meat, the only trick is choosing the right cut. You want one that's less expensive, well marbled, and tough — lamb shanks, beef short ribs, pork shoulder, chicken thighs. Bone-in is best because the bones contribute their marrow to enrich and thicken the sauce.

To braise meat, start by seasoning it with salt and pepper. Then film a Dutch oven with enough oil to cover the bottom and set it over medium-high heat. Add the meat and sizzle all sides until it becomes crusty and brown. Remove meat from pan. Stir in chopped onion, garlic, shallots and cook until they are tender. This creates the "fond" — aka the nubby stuff that sticks to the pan and becomes the base for the resulting sauce. Next, "deglaze" the pan with stock, wine, beer or water, scraping up all the aforementioned stuff that clings to the bottom. Return the meat to the pan and bring the liquid to a boil; cover and reduce the heat and finish the braise on the stove or in a low-temp oven.

Braising is not just for meat. The same technique works wonders on vegetables, too. Slow-cooked collards, kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, parsnips, carrots and mushrooms, simmered in a little oil, become luscious and satisfying, yet light. Braised veggies are exactly what I'm craving right now in response to the heaviness of holiday cookies and treats.

To braise vegetables, start by sizzling the garlic, onions and/or shallots in a little oil, then add the vegetables, give them a toss and cook until they start to brown. Stir in the braising liquid (just enough to cover ⅓ of the vegetables), then cover and cook until tender. Remember that vegetables are more delicate; you don't want them to turn to mush.

Once you've mastered the braise, you won't need a recipe for a robust one-pot dinner to call your very own.

Braised Lamb Shanks with Gremolata

Serves 4 generously.

This is the kind of dish that tastes even better the next day. Add a few carrots and a parsnip and potato toward the end of cooking for a full meal. Garnish with sprightly lemon gremolata (see recipe) and plenty of crusty bread to sop up all the delicious sauce. From Beth Dooley.

• 4 lamb shanks
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Olive oil
• 1 onion, peeled and chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme, or 1 tsp. dried
• 1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 tsp. dried
• 1 c. red wine
• About 6 c. lamb or chicken stock
• 2 carrots, cut into chunks
• 1 large Yukon potato, cut into chunks,
• 1 parsnip, cut into chunks
• Gremolata, for serving (see recipe)

Directions

Generously season the lamb shanks with salt and pepper. Generously film a Dutch oven or large deep skillet with oil, set over medium-high heat, and sear the lamb on all sides until crusty brown, about 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the lamb and set aside and add the onion, garlic, bay leaf, thyme and rosemary and cook until the onion is tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the wine, scraping up any of the brown bits sticking to the bottom of the pot; stir in the stock. Return the meat to the pot. Reduce the heat to simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the lamb is very tender, about 1 ½ to 2 hours, turning the meat occasionally and skimming off any fat or scum that rises to the top.

Remove the lid and add the vegetables and continue cooking until the vegetables are tender and the sauce is reduced, about 30 to 40 minutes. Serve garnished with the gremolata.

Gremolata

Makes about 1 scant cup.

This jubilant condiment of parsley, garlic and lemon zest brightens up pasta, veggies and these hearty lamb shanks. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 bunch fresh parsley, finely chopped
• 2 tsp. lemon zest
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• Generous pinch coarse salt, to taste
• Generous pinch freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

In a small bowl, toss all of the ingredients together and season to taste with the salt and pepper. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Braised Dark Greens and Beans

Serves about 4.

A hearty side dish or satisfying vegetarian meal, this is delicious served over pasta or rice with a dusting of grated Parmesan cheese and plenty of crusty bread to mop up the garlicky sauce. Here, we've used chickpeas, but cannellini work beautifully, too. From Beth Dooley.

• Olive oil
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 tbsp. parsley
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme, or ½ tsp. dried
• 5 cloves garlic, smashed
• Generous pinch salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
• Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste
• 2 large bunches Swiss chard, stems removed, and sliced into ribbons
• 2 (15-oz.) cans chickpeas or cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 ½ to 2 c. vegetable or chicken stock
• Fresh lemon juice, to taste
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for optional garnish

Directions

Film a Dutch oven or large deep skillet with oil, set over medium-high heat and add the onion, parsley, thyme, garlic and a generous pinch of salt, pepper and red pepper, to taste. Cook, stirring, until tender and then add the chard by the handful, cooking and stirring until the leaves begin to wilt.

Stir in the beans and just enough stock to cover ⅓ of the vegetables. Season to taste. Bring to a simmer and cook, mashing some of the beans with a wooden spoon, until the liquid has reduced and thickened, about 5 to 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve garnished with the Parmesan, if desired.

Braised Chicken Thighs with Lemon and Capers

Serves 4.

Braised chicken thighs are supremely moist and tender. The chicken skin crisps and the meat becomes succulent; a shot of lemon juice and a few capers give the dish a tangy, briny kick. Serve this over cooked whole grain or mashed potatoes and a crisp green salad on the side. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 ½ lb. bone-in chicken thighs
• Generous pinch salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Generous pinch red pepper flakes
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 shallots, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, smashed
• ½ c. white wine
• ½ c. chicken stock, or more as needed
• 1 c. chopped parsley, plus more for serving
• ¼ c. capers, drained
• Zest of 1 small lemon, preferably Meyer
• Juice of 1 small lemon

Directions

Generously season the chicken with salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Film a Dutch oven or large heavy skillet with oil and set over medium-high heat. Add the onion, shallots and garlic and cook until they become tender, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Add the chicken and sear until very brown all over, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate.

Whisk the wine and stock into the pan, stirring to scrape up any brown bits that stick to the bottom. Return the chicken to the pot with the parsley. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover and cook until the chicken is moist and tender, adding more stock if needed, about 25 to 30 minutes.

Stir in the capers, lemon zest and lemon juice and cook a few minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning; serve garnished with more parsley.