Is Minnesota the Land of 10,000 Lagers?

"What's the difference between a lager and a pilsner?" is a question that I am frequently asked. For many, the word lager is synonymous with the pale, mass-produced beers that craft beer drinkers love to hate. The understanding is that lager is a beer style, just like pale ale and porter, and all beers that don't fit that profile are something else.

The truth is that a pilsner is a lager, as are bock beers, Munich helles, dunkel and a number of others. Rather than being a singular style, lager is a broad category that encompasses a range of styles with a variety of colors, flavors and strengths.

In the beer universe there are two main groupings — ale and lager. The primary difference between them is yeast and fermentation.

Ale and lager yeasts are different species with very different needs. Ale yeasts ferment quickly at warm temperatures; lager yeasts take things slow and like it cold. While an ale can be ready to package after just over a week, lagers require an extended conditioning period at very low temperatures to allow the yeast to finish its job.

The path from sugar to alcohol is not a simple one. There are multiple steps, and at each one the yeast produces byproducts that contribute to a beer's profile. Ales' warmer fermentation promotes the formation of fruity and spicy flavors; lagers' cold fermentation inhibits them. Thus, ales tend to have a rounder profile with fermentation-derived character, while lagers are generally crisp and clean.

Beyond those differences, the full spectrum of brewing ingredients and the flavors they bring are used by both lager and ale brewers. To sample a wide range of lager styles, look no further than Minnesota brewers.

Feeling the light lager love

When it comes to lagers, craft beer has come full circle. The light American lagers that the movement initially railed against have now been embraced by a growing number of craft breweries, and Minnesota's are no exception. There are, of course, the old Minnesota standbys — Grain Belt Premium, Grain Belt Nordeast and Schell's Deer Brand. But the state's smaller breweries have also jumped on the light lager train.

One of the best is Crankin' Foamers from Fair State Brewing Cooperative in Minneapolis. It leans a bit to the sweeter side with low, grainy malt, low bitterness and light lemon/lime/tropical hop flavors. It's fuller bodied than many American lagers, but still light enough to drink over the long haul.

Another good one is Lowertown Lager by Tin Whiskers Brewing Co. in St. Paul. This is a straightforward American lager with no frills. It's dry and light with equally balanced grain, bitterness and familiar spicy hops accompanied by traces of green apple.

For a heavier take on the style, try Mexican Honey from Indeed Brewing Co. At 8% alcohol, it is significantly stronger than the others. Mexican orange blossom honey lends beeswax-like character to the toasted grain and bready malt. The bitterness is just high enough to cut through any sweetness. The Minneapolis brewery also has a light version for those who don't want the strength.

Though Earth Rider Brewery is in Superior, Wis., its Precious Material Helles Lager is worthy of mention. The Munich helles style is a fuller-flavored, malt-forward golden lager from Bavaria. This version is spot on. White bread and toasted grain lead with moderate sweetness balanced by just enough bitterness. European hops offer a spicy counterpoint.

Made for pilsner fans

There is a wealth of Minnesota-made riches for pilsner lovers like myself. Both the Czech and German styles are well represented.

Utepils Brewing's Pils is everything a Czech-style pilsner should be. The Minneapolis brewery presents a lovely blend of sweet, bready malt and the spice and floral perfume of Bohemian Saaz hops. There is not much more to say about this beautifully balanced beer except drink it.

On the German side, try Fair State Pils. Hops are at the forefront of this super crisp pilsner. Grassy, spicy and lemon-citrus flavors abound alongside a bracing bitterness. Bready malt plays support without getting in the way. The dry finish leaves you wanting another sip.

St. Paul's Summit Brewing Company's Keller Pils is another can't-miss German-style pilsner. "Keller bier" in Germany is lager that is served before the normal long conditioning period is complete. It typically has a slight haze and exhibits fermentation character that disappears in a fully conditioned pilsner. Keller Pils is true to form. A gauzy haze makes it appear lighter than most pilsners. Low sulfur notes soften the typical spicy hops and bitterness, while boosting the grainy malt.

Amber waves of lager

Moving on to amber-colored lagers, Minnesota is lucky to have some great examples of the malt-forward Vienna lager style.

Schell Brewing Company's Firebrick is an old-school classic from the classic New Ulm brewery. This is a malt-forward but balanced lager. Toffee and bread crust flavors lead the way. Moderate bitterness keeps the sweetness down while spicy hop flavors add just enough zing.

Fair State's Vienna Lager is less sweet and more bitter than Firebrick. Toasted bread crust and kilned grain are the dominant notes. Earthy/herbal European hops provide a zesty counterpoint. The finish is dry with lingering bread and herbs. It's crisp, clean and refreshing, yet rich and satisfying.

Malt is also the name of the game in the Minnesota Classic from Beaver Island Brewing in St. Cloud. This Vienna lager features smooth bread-crust maltiness with a slight toasty edge. Low bitterness is just enough to balance any sweetness. A touch of German hop provides a spicy counterpoint. It goes out crisp and clean, just as a good lager should.

On the dark side

If you like dark beers, Minnesota's lager brewers have got you covered.

It's slim pickings when it comes to the Munich dunkel-style lager in the Twin Cities. Indeed's Loretta's Dark Lager is a welcome and delicious entry. This one is full-on toasted pumpernickel bread with light hints of caramel-like sweetness. Hop bitterness and floral flavor stays just below the surface, letting the malt take the lead. It's malty but not sweet, going out with a clean, dry finish.

Fair State comes through again with Tmavé Pivo Czech-style dark lager. Those who think black beers are heavy, don't be fooled. Tmavé Pivo is light and crushable. The roasted malt character is low, with primarily coffee and cocoa background notes. The toasty taste of highly kilned grain is the primary flavor. Low bitterness and floral hops linger into the dry finish. Don't say you don't like dark beer until you've tried this.

On the sweet side

I'm not sure why one would want to sweeten up the normally crisp character of a lager, but if you like the pastry beers there is even a Minnesota lager for you. Frost Crack Vanilla Dunkel from Winona's Island City Brewing Co. is all vanilla, all the time. The underlying Munich dunkel is mostly lost. That said, I actually enjoyed it. This one is likely nearing the end of its run, but there are still cans to be found.

This is just a small sampling of the great Minnesota-made lagers. Get out there and try some. Prost!

Michael Agnew is a certified cicerone (beer-world version of sommelier) and owner of A Perfect Pint. He conducts private and corporate beer tasting events in the Twin Cities, and can be reached at michael@aperfectpint.net.