Meet birch syrup, maple's wilder cousin

Maple syrup, naturally sweet with its lush notes of vanilla and caramel, is one of the first signs of spring. Now, maple's lesser-known forest cousin birch is having its day. Nature's unrequited gifts of indigenous syrups broaden our definition of how to eat locally and deliciously all year long.

Maple and birch syrups are harvested around the same time, in early spring, when temperatures fluctuate. They're also harvested the same way: A small hole is drilled into the trunks, a spout (spile) is inserted and directs the sap that flows from the trees into buckets.

Maple and birch syrups also are similar in color, viscosity and texture, but where the two differ is in flavor — and thus in use. Maple's flavor is relatively straightforward and sweeter than birch, which is rich and complex with a bold mineral tang. Birch syrup tastes like a cross of balsamic vinegar with molasses and has an umami edge and is better suited to savory dishes and drinks.

Maple sap's sweetness is due to the high content of the natural sugar sucrose. Birch, with a lower amount of fructose, is far less sweet. Both are loaded with vitamins and minerals, especially vitamin C, potassium, manganese and calcium.

The history of birch syrup in Europe dates back to the Middle Ages, when it was favored in alcoholic drinks such as mead and wine. Native Americans recognized the many culinary, nutritional and medicinal benefits of both maple and birch syrups. Birch was taken for digestive ailments and to relieve arthritic pain and also used to glaze game and fish. Maple sap can be boiled down beyond the syrup stage into the classic sweetener, maple sugar, which is easy to store and transport.

Because birch syrup is precious and pricey, it may cost as much as 10 times more than maple syrup. This is due to the fact that it takes 100 gallons of raw sap to make just 1 gallon of birch syrup; maple syrup requires 40 gallons of maple sap to make 1 gallon of syrup. Simmering sap into syrup takes a long time. When I've joined friends to "syrup," we've taken turns stirring the sap in a big, wide kettle over a low wood-burning fire throughout the night.

Birch syrup also isn't as readily available as maple. You can find it at farmers markets and from individual maple producers as well as online. Given its price and scarcity, I consider birch syrup a luxury item and use it sparingly.

Both birch and maple syrups are best kept in the refrigerator, and once opened should be used within a year. Birch makes a wonderful glaze when brushed over beef, lamb and pork as they roast or are grilled. I often drizzle it over roasted squash, carrots or sweet potatoes and serve it as a condiment for well-aged cheeses, whisk it into my favorite vinaigrette and whip a little of it into butter to spread on rye bread.

Sweet and savory, maple and birch syrups are the Northern Heartland's liquid gold.

Winter Salad with Birch Syrup Vinaigrette

Serves 4 to 6.

Enjoy any leftover vinaigrette in salads, whole grains or brush over grilled meats. Store in a covered container in the refrigerator. From Beth Dooley.

For the vinaigrette:

• ¼ c. extra-virgin olive oil or hazelnut oil
• 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
• 3 tbsp. birch syrup (see Tip below)
• 2 tsp. stone ground mustard

For the winter vegetable salad:

• 1 medium sweet potato, roasted, peeled, cut into 1-in. pieces
• 1 small watermelon radish (also called beauty heart), cut into 1-in. pieces
• 1 large carrot, shredded
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• ¼ c. toasted hazelnuts or walnuts, chopped

Directions

To make the vinaigrette: In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, balsamic vinegar, birch syrup and mustard. Set aside.

To make the vegetable salad: Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Poke the potato all over with a fork and place on a baking sheet. Roast until fork-tender, about 45 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the thickness of the potato. Remove and allow to cool to room temperature, then remove and discard the peels.

In a medium bowl, toss together the sweet potato, radish and shredded carrot. Drizzle in enough of the vinaigrette to lightly coat the vegetables. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve garnished with the chopped nuts.

Tip: To substitute maple syrup, mix 2 tablespoons of maple syrup (dark preferred) with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinaigrette.

Glazed Roasted Vegetables

Serves 4.

This makes a terrific appetizer and wonderful side dish. Serve the vegetables over cooked wild rice tossed with hazelnuts and dried cranberries for a vegetarian meal or as a side dish to roast meats. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 lb. carrots, cut into 1-in. pieces
• ½ lb. parsnips, cut into 1-in. pieces
• ½ lb. sunchokes, scrubbed and cut into 1-in. pieces
• 2 to 3 tbsp. olive oil
• Splash of water, as needed
• 2 tbsp. birch syrup (see Tip below)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Chopped parsley, for garnish
• Grated orange zest, for garnish
• Chopped toasted hazelnut or pecans, for garnish

Directions

Film a large, deep saucepan with the oil and set over medium heat. Add the vegetables and stir to coat with the oil and continue cooking, and tossing, until they begin to lightly brown and caramelize.

Add a few tablespoons of water to deglaze the pan and then stir in the birch syrup. Cover and cook until the vegetables are tender and the vegetables are nicely browned and glazed. Serve warm, garnished with the chopped parsley, orange zest and chopped nuts.

Tip: To substitute maple syrup, mix 1 tablespoon of maple syrup (dark preferred) with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinaigrette.

Birch Glazed Roast Salmon or Trout

Serves 4 to 6.

Birch and salmon or trout have a natural affinity. When this rich fish is roasted at a low temperature, it turns silky and tender. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 ½ to 2 lb. skinless salmon or lake trout fillet
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp. birch syrup (see Tip)
• 2 tsp. coarse mustard
• 1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Directions

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Season the salmon with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, whisk together the syrup, mustard, and oil. Place the salmon in a baking dish and brush the salmon with the sauce.

Bake the salmon until a knife easily slides into the center with little resistance, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove and allow to sit for about 3 minutes before serving. Pass any additional glaze alongside.

Tip: To substitute maple syrup, mix 1 tablespoon of maple syrup with 2 teaspoons of balsamic vinegar.