Pumpkins aren't just for carving and pie

On these slate gray mornings, pumpkins on doorsteps shine orange and bright, lighting a path to soup season. While Halloween's jack-'o-lanterns grin with ghoulish delight for the night, their petite cousins, sugar pumpkins, are the base for the comforting dishes of winter. With names like Baby Pam, Autumn Gold, Ghost Rider and Cinderella, these sweet pumpkins are the fairest of them all.

Just the word pumpkin conjures pies, bars, breads and lattes, but these sugar varieties are the workhorses in my kitchen. Firmer than delicate butternut and delicata squash, their skins are tough to protect them for months of storage. When shopping at the farmers market and co-op, look for small pumpkins that are 3 to 5 pounds, free of bruises or soft spots. They should sound hollow when tapped, an indication that they've been "seasoned."

Store pumpkins and other hard varieties of winter squash in a cool, dry place and they will keep for several months. Once pumpkins and the hard-skinned squashes have been cut, store the pieces unwrapped in the refrigerator. Plastic wrap encourages them to sweat and deteriorate more quickly. If the edges soften, slice off those bad pieces and discard before using the rest.

To prepare a pumpkin, the skin may be so hard that it might seem like you need an ax to split it open (no wonder pumpkins are nicknamed "ironbarks"). To begin, cut a thin slice from the base so that it stands firm, then whack it in half and scoop out the seeds and fibers with a spoon. You can rinse and dry the seeds for roasting with a little oil and salt. Roast the pumpkin halves until tender, and remove the peel once it's cooled (see recipe).

The pumpkin's dense flesh and bright color produces a mash with backbone for soup, stews, curries, risotto, breads, cakes, pies and pancakes. For peak pumpkin flavor, it's a good idea to double the amount of pumpkin mash called for in a recipe. Freeze the extra, a bonus ingredient when you need to make dinner in a hurry.

Pumpkin Mash

Makes 2 to 3 cups.

Roasting pumpkins takes a bit of time, but is so easy, and the results are much tastier than canned pumpkin. Freeze the extra in a covered container for future use. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 small sugar pumpkins, about 3 lb. each

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut the pumpkin in half, scoop out the seeds and stringy parts. Place the pumpkin on a baking sheet face down and roast until the pumpkin is fork-tender, about 45 to 50 minutes. Remove and allow to cool. Peel off the skin and transfer the flesh to a food processor. Pulse until the pumpkin is smooth. Store the pumpkin mash in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or freeze in a freezer bag or plastic container.

Pumpkin Corncakes

Serves 6 to 8.

These pumpkin corncakes, spiked with jalapeños, make a wonderful vegetarian dinner or side dish. You can omit the jalapeño and sweeten the batter with a little more honey or maple syrup and call this brunch. Freeze any extras to reheat in the microwave or toaster for a tasty snack. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 c. pumpkin mash (see recipe), or canned pumpkin
• 1 c. milk
• 2 tbsp. melted butter
• 1 tbsp. honey, optional
• 2 eggs
• 1 ½ c. stone ground yellow cornmeal
• ½ c. all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp. baking powder
• 1 tsp. salt
• 1 small jalapeño, seeded and diced, optional
• Oil for frying the pancakes
• Crumbled queso fresco or feta, optional

Directions

Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the pumpkin, milk, butter, honey (if using) and eggs.

In a large bowl, stir together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Stir in the jalapeño, if using.

Film a large skillet with the oil and set over medium-high heat. When the oil ripples, ladle out the batter into pancakes onto the skillet, being careful not to crowd the pan. When bubbles appear on the surface of the pancakes, about 3 to 4 minutes, flip with a spatula and cook until the pancakes are firm, another 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and hold on the baking sheet in the oven until ready to serve. Top savory corncakes with queso fresco or feta before serving.

Curried Pumpkin Soup

Serves 4 to 6.

This makes a warming first course or satisfying meal. Apple cider adds a light sweetness while the puréed pumpkin gives the soup a velvety body without the use of cream. Serve garnished with sliced apples and pepitas. A tip: When using a blender to purée hot liquid, remove the plastic insert in the lid and cover with a dish towel to prevent steam buildup and splattering. From Beth Dooley.

• 1 tbsp. coconut or vegetable oil
• 4 tart apples (such as Haralson, Cortland, etc.), peeled, cored and chopped, plus unpeeled slices for garnish
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tbsp. curry powder
• 2 tsp. ground cumin
• 2 c. pumpkin mash, or canned pumpkin
• 4 c. chicken or vegetable broth
• 1 c. apple cider
• Pepitas, for garnish

Directions

Film a large pot with the oil and set over medium-high heat. Cook the apples, onion and garlic together until the apples release their juices, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the curry powder and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 15 to 30 seconds. Add the pumpkin, chicken broth and cider and bring the mixture to a boil, Reduce the heat and simmer until the apples are very tender.

Working in batches, purée the soup in a blender until smooth or purée with an immersion blender right in the pan. Return to the heat and bring to a simmer. Serve hot, garnished with the apple slices and pepitas.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.