Roper: Downtown St. Paul still awaits the return of state workers

Many major American regions are trying to save their downtown. In the Twin Cities, we have a double dilemma.

And despite the problems facing downtown Minneapolis these days, St. Paul's core is in much worse shape.

So there was extra attention on the Capital City on Monday as state workers began their half-time return to office. Government workers account for about a third of downtown St. Paul's workforce, by one estimate, and many are employed by the state.

I volunteered to check the vibes of downtown St. Paul, only to find that most people were still in wait-and-see mode about the impact of returning state workers. People who work in offices these days know that Monday has, for some reason, turned into Friday, Part II.

Some new signs of bureaucratic life were emerging, however. Workers told me of people now occupying cubicles that had long been used to store paperwork and boxes, and new "we're glad you're here" signage welcoming people back.

There was even some local royalty on hand for the homecoming. The Department of Agriculture treated its staff to an ice cream reception featuring the Princess Kay of the Milky Way.

(I tried to get in, but I was told at the front desk of the Orville L. Freeman Building that I would need an escort. I'll have to find some other way of celebrating Dairy Month.)

Outside the Freeman Building, I ran into Kate Nyquist on her way to Keys Cafe in downtown St. Paul with a fellow Health Department colleague. Nyquist, who was already going to the office three days a week, said she is "cautiously optimistic" about the return.

She is curious how much time her staff will still spend on virtual calls, since not everyone can be in the office at the same time.

"It's going to be a lot of work on those of us in leadership roles to make this worthwhile for our team," Nyquist said. "How do I make this exciting? But also I can't do a team-building activity every day."

Unfortunately for businesses like Keys Cafe, the return of state workers coincides with a major construction project on Robert Street — a key thoroughfare that connects the Capitol area with the rest of downtown.

In the pre-pandemic times, Keys often had a line of customers around the block, said owner Carol Hunn-Gregory. About 20 people were eating there just after 12:30 p.m. Monday — including a Minnesota Supreme Court justice. Hunn-Gregory hoped that Tuesday would be a better gauge of foot traffic.

"If I just get a few more people in that walk around here, this is going to help me and Sawatdee get through this mess," Hunn-Gregory said, referring to the construction. "Because this is going to go until the end of September."

Down the street, Sawatdee manager Ying Oberstar said she had noticed more customers than normal for a Monday. Construction has taken a toll on the Thai restaurant.

"Hopefully [the workers returning] helps, because it is really bad," Oberstar said.

Empty streets, but activity inside

The problem with downtown St. Paul is that the Capitol Complex — featuring many state office buildings — feels very isolated from the central business district. This is especially true with the current construction projects.

I ventured into the heart of downtown for something to eat, and I soon found myself trudging down nearly empty streets in the hot sun. There were no lunch options in sight.

Then, I spotted Union Depot. Surely this grand, beautifully restored building would have some lunch offerings. But the restaurant there doesn't open on Mondays.

I ultimately ate at Lost Fox across the street. That's when I realized I was looking for downtown activity in the wrong place. I needed to be inside — navigating the skyways.

A decent number of workers were milling about in the skyways around Town Square. I walked around until I reached the carpeted quiet of the Golden Rule Building.

Debbie Arndt was working there at Pat & Mike's Lobby Shoppe, a convenience store that doesn't normally open on Mondays.

"The owner wanted to be open because the state was coming back, in case we had a few people coming in," Arndt said. She saw a few state workers Monday, but not many.

State agencies once rented lots of office space in Golden Rule. "We were busy every single day," Arndt said of the pre-pandemic era. But the state moved most of those workers, and Arndt said they now don't generally walk to the building.

Downtown St. Paul does have some things going for it.

Keys Cafe and Sawatdee are surrounded by housing, for example, which will soon be joined by Pedro Park. The area has abundant transit facilities that have only expanded with the opening of the Gold Line bus rapid transit line. Sports help draw people to Lowertown and W. 7th Street at downtown's edges.

Yet the central business district needs help. There is a crisis facing a number of downtown buildings that share a common owner, which has resulted in a 16-story building being entirely vacated — and then hit by vandals. Several buildings have been condemned.

It's unclear if state workers can turn it around, but their return is a good thing.

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