The intoxicating scent of bacon and hash browns is wafting out of Mickey's Diner once more.
And downtown St. Paul is breathing a sigh of relief.
For nearly five years, since the onset of the pandemic in early 2020, the iconic diner that was known as much for never closing as for its O'Brien potatoes had bee n shuttered. The longer Mickey's remained closed, the more its customers feared it might never reopen.
But thanks to a new partnership with the previously unaffiliated Mickey's Diner By Willy a few miles to the west, Mickey's is giving its longtime fans — and city officials — reason to rejoice. In a downtown plagued by post-pandemic office vacancies, falling property values and stubborn crime, the resurrection of Mickey's is a legitimate bright spot, St. Paul leaders say.
"I think Mickey's reopening is one sign among many that downtown is going to emerge from this time of transition stronger than ever," said City Council Member Rebecca Noecker, whose ward includes downtown.
Nicolle Goodman, the city's director of Planning and Economic Development, echoed that sentiment. The dining car, built in 1937 and rolled into place at 7th Street and St. Peter in 1939, has "been an important tradition for visitors to downtown St. Paul for decades."
She added: "This is wonderful for our city, wonderful for our downtown. And we are thrilled to have them back."
Sam Hashish, who runs Mickey's By Willy and is now the co-manager of the downtown Mickey's, said he's happy to oblige. Since the diner's soft opening a month ago, customers have filled its dozen or so counter stools and handful of booths.
"It's loved by the people," Hashish said, noting a steady stream of thankful diners sharing their Mickey's memories with him. "It's a memorable place. People have told me about their first dates here, coming with their grandparents. It holds a lot of memories for a lot of people."
B Kyle, president and CEO of the St. Paul Area Chamber of Commerce, welcomed Mickey's back.
"What good news," she said. "Doesn't Mickey's bring a moment of great news to a city that needs it?"
The restaurant, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was originally owned by Mickey Crimmons and Bert Mattson. It's been featured on television and in magazines and movies for decades, making cameo appearances in the "Mighty Ducks" movies, as well as "A Prairie Home Companion" movie and "Jingle All the Way."
The Mattson family remains involved, Hashish said. But as days of closure turned to weeks, then months, then years, customers posting queries to the diner's social media pages appeared increasingly frustrated.
The diner seemed poised to reopen in the spring of 2022 following a fundraising drive that brought in more than than $73,000 to help renovate and replace the HVAC system. Then, nothing.
Later, the restaurant's website read: "We have made the difficult decision to again suspend service. It pains us we won't be here for our loyal customers, downtown neighbors and regulars. … We wholeheartedly thank you for your support! We look forward to seeing you and serving you again soon!"
On Tuesday, Hashish said the GoFundMe money was used to help pay for a new hood and air-conditioning system, a new grill and other improvements to tables and seating. But he didn't have much detail about what finally persuaded the owners to hand over operations to him, other than to say, "there are a lot of young people who were willing to put in the energy cleaning and getting it ready."
One change: No longer open 24 hours, the diner is open 6 a.m. to 7 p.m. Its menu is mostly the same, with the addition of halal and kosher items.
At Mickey's on Monday morning, cook Brian Ali — Hashish's brother — and server Elisha Cook were busy filling plates and coffee cups for a steady flow of diners. Customer Frank Durkin said he's happy the restaurant has reopened. He's happier still that Ali is doing the cooking. He followed him over from Mickey's By Willy.
"I'll keep on coming down to see Brian, if he's working," Durkin said.
Joe Spencer, president of the St. Paul Downtown Alliance, said Mickey's reopening was a happy surprise and a needed burst of energy for downtown.
"When they were closed, it supported a lot of anxiety about what's going on downtown," he said. "It was good just to see the lights back on. But more than that, every time I have gone past, it's been busy. The menu's the same. The food's the same. It's just great."