This recipe appeared in the Star Tribune's Taste section in 2007 as part of Lynne Rossetto Kasper's national newspaper column "Ask the Splendid Table," a companion to her longtime radio show.

In this column, Rosetto Kasper answered a reader wanting a recipe for spaghetti with spicy tomato sauce while waiting for summer tomatoes.

Classic Spaghetti with Tomato-Red Wine Sauce

Serves 3 or 4 as a main dish; 6 to 8 as a first course.

The sauce can be made several days ahead and refrigerated, or frozen for up to three months. Cooking salami is an old trick Italian cooks used to get the flavor of fully seasoned meat into a quick sauce. They didn't have to go to the expense of buying a pound of beef or pork, or take the time it would demand to be cooked through.

  • 5 quarts salted water in a 6-quart pot

Sauce:

  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 medium onions, chopped into ¼-in. dice
  • Top half of 2 medium ribs of celery with leaves, thinly sliced
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 2 oz. good-tasting Italian salami, cut into ¼-in. dice (Genoa, Soppressatta or hard salami)
  • ¼ to ½ tsp. hot red pepper flakes
  • 2 large cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 generous tbsp. tomato paste
  • ⅔ c. dry red wine
  • ½ c. fresh basil leaves, torn, tightly packed
  • 1 generous tbsp. dried basil
  • 1 (28-oz.) can whole tomatoes with their liquid, plus 1 (14-oz.) can, drained

Pasta:

  • 1 lb. imported Italian spaghetti
  • 1 generous c. freshly grated young Pecorino Toscano, Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Directions

Have the salted water boiling. Film a straight-sided 12-inch sauté pan with oil and heat to medium high. Add the onions, celery and a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper. Saute over medium-high 5 minutes, or until the onion is golden.

Blend in the salami and hot pepper. Sauté them 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic, tomato paste, red wine and two types of basil. Stir as the wine boils down to almost nothing. Then add the tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pan. Bring the sauce to a lively bubble and cook until it is thick, 7 to 8 minutes.

Stir the sauce to keep it from sticking. Remove it from the heat, taste for seasoning and cover the pan. (The sauce can wait on the stovetop up to an hour. Bring it to a bubble before adding to the pasta.)

Drop the pasta into the boiling water. Boil it until tender but still a little firm to the bite, stirring often. Drain it immediately in a colander. Meanwhile, reheat the sauce to a lively bubble. Add the drained pasta to the pan, and toss to thoroughly coat with the sauce, about 3 minutes. Turn the pasta into a serving bowl and toss with the cheese. Serve hot.