Corn and tomatoes, tomatoes and corn — peak summer eating is splendidly simple.

Such pristine flavors need no more than a drizzle of great olive oil, a sprinkle of coarse salt and a few grinds of black pepper. Toss in crisp cucumbers and you've got a speedy side dish; add a hunk of rustic bread and turn this into a satisfying hot weather meal. To bulk things up, add a sprinkle of crumbled bacon or sliced grilled chicken. Looking for a vegetarian option? Try toasted bread cheese, or juustoleipä.

Pronounced "yoo-stoh-lei-pah," bread cheese originated in Finland and is traditionally made with goat or reindeer milk. The Midwestern version, crafted from cow's milk, is being produced in Wisconsin and Minnesota. The process presses together cheese curds, similar in texture to feta, into the shape of a thick slice of bread. It's then baked so the natural milk sugars form a light caramel crust. The cheese "squeaks" when eaten fresh, but when roasted or griddled, it turns lush and velvety within its crisp exterior. Griddled cubes of bread cheese add more flavor, texture and depth than croutons to any salad, especially the classic panzanella, Caesar or Italian insalata estiva.

The only trick to this salad is choosing veggies at their peak. Our sweet local corn, coming into farmers markets and co-ops, is so deliciously fresh, I hardly ever bother to cook it. Rather, I just cut the kernels straight from the cob and toss them with tart-sweet cherry tomatoes. The griddled cubes of bread cheese are added while still hot and soften the corn and tomatoes while heightening their flavors.

Finally, cucumbers give this medley a crisp, cooling finish. Liberally seasoned with plenty of garden herbs — go heavy on the basil — and a pinch of red pepper for heat, this salad anchors our summer meals.


Peak Summer Corn, Cherry Tomato and Bread Cheese Salad

Serves 2 to 4 but is easily doubled.

Be sure to use the freshest corn and tomatoes and don't skimp on the oil. Feel free to swap out the cheese for crumbled bacon, grilled corn or steak. Don't hold back on the fresh herbs, especially basil. From Beth Dooley.

• 2 c. very fresh corn kernels, from 2 to 3 ears of corn

• 2 c. halved cherry tomatoes

• 1/2 c. thinly sliced red onion

• 4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

• 12 oz. bread cheese, cut into 1-in. cubes

• 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice, or more to taste

• 1 small cucumber, cut into half-moons

• 1/2 c. chopped fresh basil, more for garnish

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions

In a large bowl, toss together the corn, tomatoes and onion and set aside.

Film a medium skillet with the oil and set over medium heat. Add the cubed bread cheese and cook, turning, to toast them on all sides, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer the cheese cubes and oil into the bowl with the tomatoes and corn and toss together along with the lemon juice. Add the cucumbers and basil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with more basil before serving.

Beth Dooley is the author of "The Perennial Kitchen." Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.