The recent launch of Amtrak's Borealis, a second train between St. Paul and Chicago, evoked the midcentury golden age of Midwest train travel — when the dueling Hiawatha and Zephyr behemoths barreled down the Mississippi River Valley at top speeds of more than 100 miles per hour.
I was excited, yet wary of Amtrak's 21st-century record of running the existing Empire Builder train more than two hours late. But there was adventure ahead, history to explore and no time to sit on my hands.
It turns out that the new 54-mph Borealis is averaging only a 27-minute delay on its entire trek to Chicago, and 43 minutes on the return. That was all the encouragement I needed to jump into two very entertaining weekend excursions: to Red Wing, Minn., and La Crosse, Wis.
Compelling history in Red Wing
In June, I sampled the new service with a same-day trip from St. Paul's Union Depot to Red Wing. My round trip cost $18. Weekend parking at Union Depot is a bargain at $4 per day. Borealis was right on time in both directions. The train itself is not new, but the leather seats and Wi-Fi were new to me.
Red Wing is perfect for a Borealis day trip because the town is very walkable, and the daily 11:05 a.m. departure from St. Paul and 12:35 p.m. arrival leaves five hours to explore. There is plenty of compelling history within three blocks of the Red Wing station. Our primary targets were the iconic St. James Hotel and the majestic Sheldon Theatre, institutions enhanced by the legacy of two pioneering women.
The Sheldon was born from an $83,000 trust gifted to the city in 1900 by businessman Theodore B. Sheldon. His widow, Annie, led the project to build a leading-edge entertainment showplace. The Renaissance Revival building was a masterpiece of sculpture, decorative painting and arches that earned its nickname, the Jewel Box.
The theater is brimming with intriguing Masonic symbolism. Annie Sheldon's love of Roman and Greek gilded hearts, cherubs, peacocks and eagles appears in every nook and cranny of the four-level hall. Grab a self-guided tour booklet to help unlock the mystery. We toured the public areas for free by visiting when the box office is open: 1-5:30 p.m. Wed.-Fri. and 12:30-4 p.m. Sat. Call ahead to ensure there is not a play rehearsal on the day you visit (1-651-388-8700).
In 1875, Red Wing was the wheat-trading capital of the world. Eleven civic-minded businessmen banded together to develop a commensurate luxury hotel. Architect Edward Bassford provided the solution with the four-story Italianate-style St. James. Its Victorian accents, furnishings and decor are wonderfully preserved.
In 1914, Clara Lillyblad began her 62-year reign running the food and lodging side of the business, building the hotel's reputation for cuisine. The meals were so good that the train layover in Red Wing was increased to an hour to enable passengers to experience the dining.
We enjoyed Scarlet Kitchen and Bar, the second-floor restaurant featuring patio views of the river. Another interesting find was the free Ski Jumping Museum down the hall. After 4 p.m., grab a refreshment at the vintage speakeasy bar, the Port, on the lower level.
It is said that Clara's spirit and the ghost of a young girl (who drowned in a well) haunt the hotel. I'm glad I didn't know that when I was wandering the deserted hallways.
From the St. James, it is less than half a block to the Red Wing Shoes flagship store. The store displays hundreds of its well-crafted shoes, but is also a testament to the company's hundred-year history. There are educational exhibits about shoemaking and a museum on the second floor. Enthusiastic tourists take selfies with the World's Largest Boot.
Just up the block, don't bypass the Hanisch Bakery and Coffee Shop. We refueled with their delish pastries and can testify why they have won awards for best Minnesota bakery.
We returned to the station in time for the westbound Borealis' 5:40 p.m. return to St. Paul.
Riverside fun in La Crosse
Using the Borealis for an overnight trip to La Crosse had been at the top of my bucket list. There is so much to do, from river views to scenic bluffs, and a plethora of outstanding food and drink establishments.
Unlike Red Wing, the La Crosse Amtrak station does not facilitate an easy walking tour. No matter. I took advantage of the city's biking network.
For my $54 round trip, Borealis arrived right on time in La Crosse at 2:16 p.m. I caught a short taxi ride to the Radisson Hotel, and from there it was just a few steps to a Drift Cycle bike-sharing kiosk, with 15 locations across the city. When you sign up on the Drift Cycle app, your first 60 minutes are free; the regular rate is only $1 per 30 minutes. For an extended bike rental, the Wrench & Roll bike shop is a 15-minute walk from the Amtrak station and a standard rental is $28 per day or $60 for the weekend (1-608-406-2261).
The city's Riverside Park is an urban oasis, delivering spectacular views of the tumultuous intersection of the Mississippi, La Crosse and Black Rivers. A steady stream of pleasure craft, barges and steamships splashed against the canvas of the La Crosse Bridge. At times it was impossible to keep pedaling. I just leaned against the closest bench to soak in the moment of zen.
The free, beautiful International Friendship Gardens nearby reveal wedding-photo backdrops at every turn. Wind your way through small waterfalls, fountains, a koi pond and meticulously manicured floral settings. The back side of the park pours into two paved bike trails: the Vietnam Veterans and Jim Asfoor trails. The combined paths create a 2.3-mile oval tracing serene wetlands and the La Crosse River.
Board a cruise on the La Crosse Queen paddewheeler. The line offers reasonably priced 1.5- to 2.5-hour pizza, brunch or dinner cruises featuring surprisingly good food (lacrossequeen.com).
The Dahl Auto Museum displays pristine classic cars from many eras. Kids love the exhibits (it's free for ages 8 and younger) and the admission is only $5 (adults), $4 (seniors) or $3 (kids over 8). From the Dahl, it was an easy 8-minute pedal to the Historic Hixon House Museum, an original 1858 pioneer home (lchshistory.org).
Before my 3:58 p.m. train home the next day, I toasted the end of my La Crosse adventure at the Waterfront Restaurant & Tavern in Riverside Park. The patio presents memorable river views and sunsets, enhanced by a killer happy hour (thewaterfrontlacrosse.com). The restaurant receives accolades for its filets, salmon and calamari.
I was skeptical of the new Borealis service, but after using it as a reliable conduit to these two great river cities, I've become a reborn Amtrak fan. It's about time.
Tony Randgaard is retired after more than 20 years in airline marketing.
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