Your ultimate guide to eating and drinking in downtown St. Paul

Welcome back to St. Paul. Whether you're a returning office worker or heading to the Fitz, Orpheum, Xcel Energy Center or the Children's or Science museums, there are still plenty of reasons to visit downtown, including planning a trip entirely around the food scene.

While there have been plenty of headlines about downtown's shortcomings, there's a lot cooking in and around the area. (There is that zone of not much between Rice Park and Lowertown, but that's also part of the city's evolution.) There has been a major evolution since the pandemic, but many restaurants, coffee shops and bars have persevered, and new faces and spaces have emerged.

See for yourself. Grab a friend — and your passports if you've got a Minneapolis ZIP code — and reacquaint yourself with the tastiness of the Saintly City.

DOWNTOWN PROPER

HepCat Coffee

A coffee shop and bakery at the base of the Osborn370 Plaza is a popular weekday morning stop before heading to the office, or a nice place to plan an offsite meeting that includes sweet pastry snacks. Order online for speedy pickups of salted chocolate chip cookies, tarragon chicken salad croissants or the pasta salad of the day. Breakfast, lunch

370 N. Wabasha St., hepcatcoffee.com

Afro Deli

A cup of Somali tea, deeply aromatic and packed with caffeine, is an instant day-brightener, but Afro Deli serves the downtown neighborhood all day long. From crispy sambusas to creamy chicken fantastic, there are plenty of reasons to stop by this deli. Grab something quick, or settle in to enjoy the hearty fare. Breakfast, lunch

5 W. 7th Place, afrodeli.com

Ruam Mit Thai and Lao Cuisine

Take a tropical vacation inside this beautiful restaurant or on the patio. Ruam Mit Thai is a longtime downtown eatery, but this location is relatively new for those who haven't been downtown in a minute. Classics like the cream cheese wontons and pad thai are still around, but we strongly suggest digging deeper into the rich menu with dishes like whole fried tilapia topped with fresh lemongrass, ginger and green sour mango, or Nam Khao, a salad of crispy fried rice studded with nubs of pork sausage. Lunch, dinner

367 Wabasha St., ruammitmn.com

Sakura

For a healthy fix, this spot serves up traditional authentic Japanese cuisine featuring high-quality fish and the best spicy tuna roll around. A section of the sushi menu features specialty rolls that pay tribute to downtown St. Paul and Minnesota Wild hockey. Other menu items are also available, including katsu, tempura and teriyaki dishes. Happy hour, dinner

350 St. Peter St.,sakurastpaul.com

Mickey's Diner

The iconic downtown St. Paul diner still serves all-day classics. From breakfast with thick and crispy hash browns in the America's Favorite All Day Meal to malts and a few new treats like baklava, Mickey's has been a decades-long tradition for downtown workers, families visiting the nearby Children's Museum and anyone looking for late-night comfort eats. Open 24 hours.

36 W. 7th St., St. Paul

Loon Cafe

Chili fans: This is home base. For decades, the Loon Cafe has been the place to stop before or after a game in downtown Minneapolis and St. Paul. It's a casual, cozy neighborhood bar vibe. Besides the chili, there are other Land of 10,000 Lakes dishes on the menu, like wild rice soup, walleye fingers and a turkey sandwich on cranberry wild rice bread. The rest of the offerings are largely bar food classics, and the TVs are strategically placed around the room so you can stay tuned to all the scores. Lunch, dinner, late night

426 St. Peter St., looncafe.com/st-paul

Candyland

Guaranteed, you'll smell Candyland before even laying eyes on the whimsical storefront. Stop inside for the best popcorn around and load up on road treats for the trip home. There are giant tins of Chicago Mix, handcrafted chocolates and giant lollipops that will make anyone feel like a giant kid inside this literal candy store. It's a handy bribery for parents trying to extract the kids from nearby Children's Museum — a little buttery box of popcorn and a handful of chocolate work wonders. Open all day

435 Wabasha St. N., candylandstore.com

Meritage

Meritage raised the bar on fine dining in downtown St. Paul when it first opened in 2007 and has only held it loftier with every year it's been open. There's a casual bar side for exceptional drinks and fresh oysters, or the dining room for chef Russell Klein's gorgeous French fare and Desta Klein's polished service. During warm months, the sidewalk cafe fills the neighborhood with a cosmopolitan vibrancy and beautiful views of Landmark Center and Rice Park. Happy hour, dinner

410 St. Peter St., meritage-stpaul.com

The St. Paul Grill

The finery of this classic restaurant inside the St. Paul Hotel sets the stage for a throwback kind of glamour: white tablecloths, top-shelf bottle selection in the bar and a menu of comforts served with just a touch of formality. We've long appreciated the creamy wild rice soup or the prepared-to-order steaks, accompanied by an arctic-cold martini. This is a place we love to go for feeling like our bank accounts are at least 30% fatter than reality. Lunch, happy hour, dinner

350 N. Market St., stpaulgrill.com

Pimento Jamaican Kitchen

This casual counter-order spot with brightly painted walls serving up Jamaican fare transports you to the Caribbean island. Popular items such as Jamaican patties and wings are recommended. As are the coconut rice and bean bowls with choice of jerk chicken or pork, curry chicken or vegetables and braised oxtail. The bowls come with fried plantains and island slaw, and are a great way to graze the menu. Lunch, dinner

354 N. Wabasha St., pimento.com

Citizen Supper Club

The modern midcentury restaurant inside the Intercontinental Hotel offers reliable, fast service when serving up a menu of New American fare with worldly flair. Dishes such as Swedish shrimp salad toast, za'atar roasted cauliflower with curried yogurt and steak frites with gochujang barbecue sauce share space on the menu. Lunch, happy hour, dinner

InterContinental Saint Paul Riverfront Hotel, 11 E. Kellogg Blvd., citizensupperclub.com

Amsterdam Bar and Grill

This popular downtown music club also has a bar menu of hearty fare that draws diehard fans for the food alone. The thick Belgian-style fries topped with raw onions, shawarma-spiced chicken wings and a $9 smashburger are available most weekdays starting at 2 p.m. Happy hour, dinner, late night

6 W. 6th St., amsterdambarandhall.com

Zamboni's on 7th

Right next to Xcel Energy Center, this is a crowd-pleasing stop for pizza before an event. Thin crust and cut in squares with all the classic toppings. The rest of the menu is stacked with bar-food favorites like Buffalo wings, burgers and more. Lunch, dinner, late night

174 W. 7th St., zambonison7th.com

Smorgie's

Right across the street from the X, this restaurant is attached to the hotel, so it's a great bet if the goal is to laser in on the action. Smorgie's specializes in down-home comforts and aims to keep the food affordable. Stadium snacks like onion rings, mini corn dogs and tots are all $8, there's a $12 burger and more. The decor is vibrant and our favorite seats are the swinging ones suspended from the ceiling. Lunch, dinner, late night

127 W. 7th St., smorgiesbar.com

Little Brazil

Head down closer to the Mississippi River for a little off-the-beaten-path adventure to this Brazilian grocer and cafe. Even if you're not familiar with the cuisine, there's plenty to find and love. There are cheesy pao bread bites, meaty empanadas that are a meal themselves and a pernil sandwich that's an irresistible feat of pork and cheese. Stock up on chocolate bars and other treats for later. Breakfast, lunch, dinner.

230 Spring St., littlebrazilmn.com

Crasqui

At this ode to an island off the coast of Venezuela, chef/owner Soleil Ramirez shares her love of that tropical place in her St. Paul fine-dining restaurant. Stepping inside feels like a one-way ticket to somewhere warmer, with cerulean waters and aged rums. Plates of long-stewed meats, fresh herbs, hearty starches and velvety sauces woo all levels of food fans — from those looking for new experiences to those more comfortable in the meat-and-potato zone. Happy hour, dinner

84 Wabasha St., Suite #3, crasquirestaurant.com

WEST 7th

Downtowner Woodfire Grill

For decades, this cozy West 7th spot with an open fire draws regulars as well as movers and shakers. Dishes such as beef tenderloin, leg of lamb and swordfish and jumbo shrimp are cooked over an oak wood-burning grill and are always a treat. But salads, crabcakes, sandwiches, burgers and pastas are also at the ready if you want to go that route. Lunch, dinner

253 W. 7th St., downtownerwoodfire.com

Moe's Burger Bar

The casual sibling restaurant to the Downtowner across the street, Burger Moe's is a place to kick up your feet, hopefully on that gorgeous patio with bright umbrellas and flowerbeds. As the name implies, burgers are the star of the show. But there's much more to choose from such as wings, paninis and flatbreads. Lunch, dinner

242 W. 7th St., burgermoes.com

Patrick McGovern's

McGovern's is the place to choose when a group can't all agree on one food: burgers, chicken Alfredo, chicken fingers, fish and chips or strawberry chicken salad, this menu has every kind of eater's desire covered. Ambience tracks, too. There are cozy tables inside the Irish pub and tables out in the year-round, glass-surrounded patio. Lunch, dinner, late night

225 W. 7th St., patmcgoverns.com

Cossetta's

Cossetta's began as a small family market, but now it's a towering multilevel eatery. Fan favorites are the slices and a bowl of mostaccioli — simple pasta in red sauce with cheese. Stop by the pasticceria for gelato or, if you're a coffee drinker, affogato. (That's where they pour espresso over the gelato and it's one of our newest obsessions.) The grocery store inside also comes in clutch after work when you need a heat-and-eat dinner option. Lunch, dinner

211 W. 7th St., cossettas.com

Tom Reid's Hockey City Pub

This is the place that celebrates puck life year-round. The walls are filled with jerseys, sticks, photos of the greats and TVs to catch all the games. The menu varies if there's an event, so check the calendar accordingly. But be sure to try the favorites, from a classic poutine and all-you-can-eat salad bar to wings, burgers and chicken tenders. There's breakfast on Sundays. Breakfast, lunch, happy hour, dinner

258 W. 7th St., tomreids.com

Parlour

In burger fan circles, Parlour's name is synonymous with a rich, decadent smashed burger, but that's not the only reason to stop by this multi-roomed restaurant. Parlour opens for lunch and the kitchen stays cooking until 9:30 p.m. Other classic dishes include snacks like deviled eggs, wild rice pot pie and a full walleye dinner. Lunch, dinner

267 W. 7th St., St. Paul, parlourbar.com

Emerald Cocktail Lounge

Color us green with envy if you can snag a seat at this West 7th hotspot that opens at 4 p.m. Craft cocktails with plenty of originality are a main draw, while the succinct menu of mostly casual bites complements. And the lounge setting with warehouse vibes and cushy velvety chairs will make you want to play and stay for a while.

455 W. 7th St., emeraldstpaul.com

Cafe Astoria

Some of the prettiest coffee drinks inside the city can be found at this little coffee shop. Try something colored purple with ube or garnished with gold leaf for a photo moment to share with other fans. Breakfast is also available in the cafe space and there are crêpes to enjoy. There are a few pastry options to grab and go, as well. Breakfast, lunch

180 Grand Av., St. Paul, cafeastoria-stpaul.com

DeGidio's

This red-sauce Italian restaurant has been a family favorite for generations — for good reason. The pastas are crowd-pleasers and hearty fare that's pure comfort. Plus, there's a burger that has fans pledging their undying love to this West 7th restaurant. The parking lot and spacious dining room also make this a great stop when coming in from out of town with a crew. Lunch, dinner

425 W. 7th St., degidios.com

Bad Weather Brewing

A brewery might seem like an odd place to call family-friendly, but this one is filled with folks of all ages every evening they're open. Food trucks park outside and the room is stocked with board games for passing time. For dog-friendly folks, there are also always furry friends for petting in the room or around the fire pits outside. Plus, they open at 3 p.m. Monday through Friday. In addition to the fantastic beer lineup, there's a rotating selection of NA beverages. Happy hour, dinner

414 W. 7th St., badweatherbrewery.com

LOWERTOWN

The Buttered Tin

One of St. Paul's favorite breakfast restaurants, this cafe serves all kinds of classics done with a modern twist. Check the specials board for what the kitchen is turning out that day — there's usually a stuffed hash brown that's irresistible. Save room for sweets; the owner is also a pastry chef and the cinnamon rolls, twinkies and cupcakes are worth savoring. Breakfast, lunch

237 E. 7th St., thebutteredtin.com

The Bulldog Lowertown

A neighborhood pub with elevated bar food, great tap list and a great patio, Bulldog has been a Lowertown draw for more than a decade. This is an ideal spot for post-work happy hours or a place to stop for tots, burgers, fancy hot dogs or even a hearty salad before a Saints game. Lunch, dinner, late night

237 E. 6th St., thebulldogmn.com

1881 Eating House

St. Paul's historic Union Depot is a spectacular bit of history that remains an ode to the glory days of travel. The restaurant opened with much of the same supper club menu served at sister restaurant Lake Elmo Inn, including the New York strip and butternut squash ravioli. But there are also more casual items available for breakfast and lunch, and a new outdoor patio right at the glorious entrance of the building. Breakfast, lunch, dinner

214 E. 4th St., 1881eatinghouse.com

Big River Pizza

It started with a pizza oven on the back of a truck parked at farmers markets, so it's fitting that this Neapolitan-style pie shop utilizes its position adjacent to the St. Paul Farmers Market to celebrate Minnesota-made ingredients. The flavors follow the seasons and are as local as can be. Big River feeds Lowertown with lunch (and dinner) slice specials. Lunch, dinner

280 E. 5th St., bigriverpizza.com

SoYen Desserts

Located right across from the St. Paul Farmers Market, this cafe sells out of its freshly made doughnuts early most weekends. Insiders know to arrive at 10 a.m. on Fridays for the widest selection with whipped cream fillings flavored with inventive flavor combinations, like black sesame and strawberries, yuzu, rosewater and more. So Yen also has a rotating selection of savory breakfast offerings like rich congee or a breakfast sandwich with Hmong sausage served in that fluffy fried dough base. Breakfast, lunch Fri., Sat., Sun. only.

275 E. 4th St., soyendesserts.com

Phe Coffee House

This sun-filled cafe has been packed since opening in Lowertown's Market House building. Known for its inventive coffee and decadent treats, this is the spot to come for ube lattes, cheese foam-topped Vietnamese iced coffee, and all the good, classic espresso drinks. There are light cafe bites, plus croffels — croissant waffles stuffed with sweet fillings. Breakfast, lunch

289 E. 5th St., phecoffeehouse.com

Bullvino's

This locally owned Brazilian steakhouse is known for having all the meats, but it also has a bar menu with lamb and picanha burgers, wings, empanadas and charcuterie — not to mention a sprawling salad bar that's a meal itself. Choose your own adventure, but the all-you-can-eat churrasco experience is a fun and delicious treat. Lunch, dinner.

289 E. 5th St., bullvinos.com

Urban Wok

This "global fusion" franchise first started in Lowertown in 2018 and has been expanding across the metro area. At the original, find protein-carb-vegetable stir-fries (or engineer your own)m augmented by a wide array of sauces that bring them into Latino, Hawaiian, Korean, Indian, Asian or Mediterranean directions. Lunch, dinner, late night

209 E. 4th St., urbanwokusa.com

Lost Fox Coffee

Come one, come all. Operating as a coffee shop/cafe in the day and moonlighting as a bar and full-fledged restaurant at night, this Lowertown spot caters to what guests need at any given hour. The menus keep it casual with mostly noshes and handhelds while featuring a sizable list of options to cater to just about everyone. What's more, the space easily accommodates crowds. Breakfast, lunch, dinner

213 4th St., lostfoxlowertown.com