Why French ciders are among the best drinks in the world — and the 7 you should try

When you think of fermented beverages from France, you probably think of wine. But in the country's northwest region, the beverage of choice comes not from grapes, but apples.

Cider is the drink du jour in Brittany and Normandy, and ciders made from those regions are among the most delectable drinks on the planet. Their color, clarity and sweetness make them stand out — viewed through the bowl of a Bordeaux glass, their golden-amber hue, brilliant clarity and sparkling bubbles offer an alluring invitation to drink.

These key characteristics — color, clarity and sweetness — are the product of a cidermaking process called keeving. In keeving, the apples are milled and then sit for 24 hours, allowing oxidation to darken the pulp (think sliced apples turning brown when exposed to air) and haze-forming pectin to leach from the cells.

The pulp is then pressed, and the juice is held at a low temperature, halting the start of fermentation. Natural enzymes cause the pectin to coagulate and float to the top, forming a "brown cap" layer. The clear, amber juice is run off and allowed to ferment naturally. Because keeving also removes important yeast nutrients, fermentation proceeds very slowly, resulting in greater flavor development and the ability to package cider with a relatively high sugar content without pasteurization.

There is sweetness to be sure, but these are not the one-dimensional, fizzy, soda pop-sweet commercial ciders that many Americans are used to drinking. The nose and palate of French ciders weave a rich tapestry of fruit that resembles cooked and concentrated red apples. The sweetness is backed up by complex layers of tannin and acid from the varieties of bitter and sour cider apples that contribute to the juice. It's not uncommon to find subtle notes of earth and barnyard brought about by natural fermentation.

There are several great French ciders available in the Twin Cities. They can be difficult to find, but are worth the effort. Thomas Liquors in St. Paul (1941 Grand Av., thomasliquor.com) always has a good selection. If your favorite retailer doesn't carry them, ask to have them specially ordered.

The ciders of Normandy

Domaine Dupont is one of Normandy's premier cidermakers. It is located in the Pays d'Auge area, which has been granted appellation contrôlée status for its cider due to its unique terroir.

Dupont Reserve is a top-of-the-line cider that has been aged for six months in oak casks used to make its Calvados, a type of brandy made from apple cider. This is an intense cider that nonetheless remains delicately complex. Light carbonation propels aromas of baked apples, vanilla and cinnamon from the glass. Baked apple carries to the palate, blended with notes of prune, brandy, honey and raisins. Cooked and dried fruits are contrasted and balanced by lemony acidity that lingers lightly in the finish, as well as hints of earthy tannin. Smoky toasted oak wafts in and out, adding even greater depth.

Cambremer Cidre Pays d'Auge Protégée from Manoir de Montreuil is another delicious creation. This medium-sweet, effervescent cider is driven by flavors of baked apples, stewed plums and rum raisins. It's very fruity, with caramelized overtones. The apples were grown in soil that was once covered by ocean, giving the cider a unique minerality that impressed me as almost metallic. A touch of balancing acidity comes in the finish. With just 4.5% alcohol, it's an easy sipper.

Christian Drouin's Cidre Pays d'Auge is a full-bodied treat that leans to the sweet side. Roasted and caramelized apples lead the way, with cinnamon and baking spice adding warmth. Pineapple aroma and flavor complete its fruity abundance. Acidity is very low, and together with light tannin astringency just barely balances the sweetness. A peppery, barnyard funk from natural fermentation that is common in Normandy ciders is a delicious finishing touch.

Sidre Brut Tendre is a 5% alcohol, semisweet cider from Domaine Eric Bordelet. Don't let "semisweet" scare you off. This lively, sparkling cider leans toward the dry side. It's more semi than sweet, with residual sugar balanced by lifting, malic acidity. The apple flavor is bold. It has an initial crisp and slightly oxidized character that gives way to a sweeter cooked and bruised apple quality as the cider warms. Sidre Brut Tendre is lighter and brighter than some, but still has that rich, cooked-apple character that one expects from French cider.

The ciders of Brittany

Moving from Normandy to Brittany, BrutBrut from Cidrerie du Leguer is as dry as its binate name implies. It favors tart acidity at first, but bruised apple and raisin sweetness does fill in as the cider warms. It brought to mind homemade applesauce. Hints of cinnamon and a trace of barnyard give it a warm, rustic appeal.

Cidre Le Brun Bigoud has two ciders in the market — the USDA-certified Le Brun Organic (green label) and Brut (orange label). Organic hits the tongue with a juicy apple sweetness containing notes of honey, melon and kiwi. The sweetness is cut somewhat in the finish by low tannin and citrus-like acidity. In between are subtle touches of wood, herbs and minerals.

Le Brun Brut finishes drier but has that same overripe fruit sweetness upfront. The sweetness gives way quickly to lemony acidity accompanied by hints of pear and earth. It's a bright, refreshing treat.

Michael Agnew is a certified cicerone (beer-world version of sommelier) and owner of A Perfect Pint. He conducts private and corporate beer tasting events in the Twin Cities, and can be reached at michael@aperfectpint.net.