Callia Alta Argentina Torrontés 2017

Like viognier, torrontés sometimes can be too perfume-y, the aromatics overwhelming the nose and palate. Not so with the Callia Alta Argentina Torrontés 2017 ($13), despite its significant florals. That's because there are not only gobs of delicious fruit-cocktail flavors arriving in layers, but also surprising freshness thanks to its nice acid/mineral undergirding. The finish is surpassingly clean, especially for such a "big" wine. The winery is named for a young woman who came to the area (San Juan province) and articulated the region's bounteous beauty, becoming a national symbol of hope. Drink this super-tasty white with Thai or Vietnamese dishes or roast chicken.

Available at Haskell's, North Loop and Stinson.

Bill Ward